Piorot to Austen

Started the day with a walk tour of Clerkenwell and Islington, taking in Lenin's London home (and Marxist bookstore), Little Britian filming locations and Poirot's art deco apartments, amongst others. The tour was interesting but speedy, taking in off-beat sights that you would otherwise miss.  In the evening it was off to Regents Park for the outdoor theater performance of Pride and Prejudice. It was a great play and the location was amazing with a sea of roses in full bloom.  Its daylight until after 10pm, which is a bit disorientating but great for making the most out of your days. Tomorrow night there is a major street party near here, with Bee Gees and George Micheal impersonation shows. Should be a hoot! xx B

Hanging around in Dalston...

Made the monumental trek (not really, if you minus traffic gridlock) to Hackney to see the  latest public art installation work by Leandro Erlich. Got there only to find it was a 'press day', closed to the public. Not to fear, Aussie charm not only got us in, but we became models for the Rueters shoot!. What an amazing experience. A private viewing/play, saw the artist and listened to all the TV interviews taking place. Then off to Dalston community arts gardens for homemade lemonade and tea.  Check out the Washington Post, Irish times and others... (www.washingtonpost.com/world/photos-of-the-day/2013/06/25/6dfd9006-dcf6-11e2-9218-bc2ac7cd44e2_gallery.html#photo=1). xx B

As the world tilts...

Back in London and last night attended the outdoor ariel performance 'As the world tilts' which marked the opening of the Greenwich and Docklands arts festival. This was an incredible performance, not just for the acrobatics and video montage, but for the eco-message.  It was enough to make you want to go deep green, right now.  Today it was window shopping in Marylebone with a detour past Sherlock Holmes house! Its still freezing, worse than winter. Tomorrow is a ghost walking tour of London. Off for some hot chocolate to keep warm! xx B

Get the Doc quick! Guess who was filming in Port Isaac

The morning began at Mount Saint Micheal, with a ferry ride over in the mist. Got there nice and early before the crowds and  made like a mountain goat up the mountain.  Its not for the faint hearted, but very impressive. Stopped in at Padstow and Fowey, the most gorgeous port towns, before heading to Doc Martin country at Port Isaac.  Was lucky enough to be there on a filming day and saw sights and stars. Tried a traditional Cornish pastie and a crab sandwich, considering buying larger pants, soon!. Came back to Exeter and went gargolye spotting at the cathedral. No shiela-na-gigs but plenty of greenmen, grotesques and dragons. The stonework is amazing and I could spend hours searching them out. Exeter is a suprisingly arts focused city, with great outdoor dining and entertainment areas, and lots of free performances. You could spend weeks just in Cornwall, and it seems most Brits feel the same (incredible number of local tourists in this region).  Lovely, lovely, lovely!  Back to London tonight... still freezing! xx B

Witchcraft Museum to Minack Theatre... Crazy about Cornwall

After arriving in Exeter to pick up the car, we were off to Boscastle for the Witchcraft Museum and one of the best pub lunches I've eaten.  The museum was great and who could not love Boscastle, where everyone has a dog (even wheeling them around in prams).  Headed down to Penzance after a short stop in Tintagel, home of King Arthur and Merlin's cave.  This is Camelot country, incredible!.  Watched an evening performance of Arabian Nights in the breathtaking Minack Theatre, a natural stone auditorium on the edge of Cornwall's dramatic coastal cliffs.  Just add in homemade scones with clotted Cornish cream and you're in heaven!.  Off to Mount Saint Michael tomorrow and some small port towns. The driving is a but ruggered --really small maze like roads between Roman walls -- but its an adventure! xxx B

Bring out the snow plough, its summer in London

Okay, I know that Turkey is unseasonally warm but come on, its 15c at midday here -- and with the windchill it feels like -5!. Took off this morning to Notting Hill (Portobello Rd) Markets in search of cheap warm clothes.  The markets were great, cut short by the sleeting rain.  London is a long way from Istanbul and I already miss the vibrancy of that place.  The UK is soooo subdued by comparison, and the weather isn't helping.  Once I warm up  I will venture out to the Natural History Museum which I suspect will be full of people  trying to keep dry. Its been a bit of a travel whirlwind and its catching up with me, so this is definitely good resting weather. I'm staying in Chelsea, which is lovely, then Belgravia next week.  Off to Cornwall early next week to see Mount St Michael and Port Isasc (where Doc Martin is filmed).  

Emire, you will be pleased to know that I have picked up a little Turkish and have drunk sooo much Turkish tea and coffee  that I am now in withdrawl.  Even did kavhe fali (Turkish coffee fortune reading), which was a hoot!.  

Quick cuppa and I am off to brave the outdoors.  Will channel my inner Bear Gryllis and fight my way through the elements to the subway... its tough, I know... Missing you all xx B

Taksim Square Protest... More than just a park

Back in Istanbul yesterday and spent the day at Taksim Park where a peaceful protest has been taking place for the past week.  While the development of the park was the tipping point, these nationwide protests are in response to concerns held about the increasing islamisation of the country by the current Prime Minister.  While Turkey is more than 90% moslem, they have traditionally seperated church and state and have been liberal in approach and lifestyle.  The Prime Minister has announced plans to ban public drinking, and protesters are concerned about the wind back of their rights and freedoms (especially for women) with the direction the government is headed.  At 8am today the police riot squads entered the square with armed vehicles, water cannons and tear gas.  Its now 10pm and the firing is still going on.  Its unclear what triggered this response from the government as peace talks were to be held tomorrow.  From the protests at the park and throughout Turkey observed, there has been no violent action or hostility from the protesters. I will post photos on Flicker (linked in the slideshow on this blog) to give you a better idea of what is going on xxx B

Ephesus & Kusadasi.. From the Ancient to Modern City

The ancient city of Ephesus was as spectacular as envisioned and equally crowded!. The city must have been amazing in its day, fully equipped with a gymnasium,  theater,  library and stadium, amongst others. Underneath the stadium you could see the waiting area and entrance for the gladiators. No Russell Crowe but hoards of people. After a quick swim, took off to Kusadasi, a port tourist town.  Was expecting something akin to Surfers at Schoolies, but it was surprisingly nice.  The main tourist season has not started yet, so you could leisurely shop and drink Turkish coffee by the seaside. There was a small protest march in town, connected to the larger protests in the major cities.  Its an interesting time to be in Turkey politically. Some of the local media refused to cover the protests (mostly being reported by foreign press and over the web), resulting in almost 200,000 people closing accounts with a major bank owned by one of the local TV stations. Great to see grass roots people power! Taking a break from the ruins tomorrow for beautiful Pammukale and its white tavertine cliffs xx B

Ruined in Selcuk

Having flown into Izmir, we took the bus to Selcuk to see the ancient city of Ephesus with its

 multitude of ruins.  First stop was the St Johns Basilica and the Temple of Artemis, one of the 7 wonders of the ancient world. Not much left to show its formed glory, but incredible to be at a site of this magnitude just the same. Goats wander the streets here, eating mulberries and jumping over the sarcophagi that line the pedestrian walks.  We stopped at a local weaving cooperative introduced to skill women and create an independent means of income.  It is government funded, introduced to provide a  long term means of financial independence after a spate of regional women suicides (given domestic circumstances) and to assist Turkey's bid to join the EU.  The weaving was complex, tricky and incredibly interesting. Learnt about local dyes from eggplants and pomegranates and the symbolism of regional carpet designs. Similar initiatives have been introduced for ceramic work and jewellry. Off the Ephesus tomorrow xx B

Fener & Fatih Markets... A piece of history

Today I went on a walking tour of the old Jewish and Greek areas of Fener and Balat, and to the local Fatih markets. The merger of Greek and Turkish cultures through  architecture is incredible, and  the main Greek Orthodox church was bedazzling with gold.  The Fatih markets had food samples on ready supply, meaning I now have totally abandoned any hope of losing weight in Turkey!  A kilo of Turkish delight was only $1.75 and there were more olives than you would believe.  Tasted white mulberries, green plums and cherries galore.  Watched traditional bagels being cooked in a wood fired oven and marvelled at the unique ottoman houses and Muslim cemetery (decorative headstone indicating former role in life, eg swords for military; fez for official). Am honing my bargaining skills and even brought an 'evil eye' warding off dog collar for Zed. Dogs are everywhere here, love it! xx B

From the harem to the kitchen (sound familiar?)

Well most of the morning was spent at the gorgeous Topaki Palace, including its famous Harem.  Cant help but think that it was a gilded cage, but luxurious. The weapons section was most impressive and the pavillions overlooking the Bospherous are just breathtaking. A short visit to the science museum (with a whole wing dedicated to water clocks, Harshi!) then it was off to my Turkish cooking class -- even had to wear the white cloak and chef hat.  Have absolutely no chance of replicating what turned out to be a delicious meal. I think the secret is pomegranate syrup.... that will be my excuse xxx B

Istanbul's a riot, literally... and I love it!

Okay, so the 'really bad pollution' burning my eyes and nose hair was really tear gas drift, but every city has its drawbacks. While the Taksim Square protests required a quick change of plans, there is little not to love about Istanbul. Yesterday I visited Hagia Sophia -- saw the upstairs viking marble-carved graffiti which was a bucket list item (got to love  8thc bored Nordic bodyguards); the Archaeological Museum (so I'm a Hittite nerd, but their lions are toooo cute); and the blue mosque.There is something wonderful about a religion that sings its followers to prayer, syren-like.  The city is a breathtaking mix of centuries. Maybe its the armed military posted everywhere, but Istanbul is safe, welcoming and gracious. As I write I'm overlooking ancient fortified walls and cobbled stone streets... and don't get me started on the sweets. Off to Topaki Palace, the Basilica cistern and science museum today xxx B

Life in the airport lounge..

Been in transit for 28 hours so far, only another 8 to go before I land in Istanbul. Sitting in Heathrow, the hub of airport tedium.  Circled the shops, finally figured out how to access their wi-fi and now have to board!.  Have watched more movies than I ever need to see and even resorted to playing digital 'who wants to be a millonaire' --needless to say, you don't always get what you want and I would be going home poor.  Will write when I get to Istanbul.... cant wait! Hope you are all well xxx B