Must be time to come home...

... as the thought of another doner kebab, borek or manti (ravioli) is leaving me a bit lack-lustre (and McDonalds is starting to look really appealing as a mainstream diet). 

Still,  its been a trip and a half, and now I am truly exhausted. No more call to prayers to tell the time; no more giving way to motorbikes on the sidewalk like they are pedestrians; no more Bospherous-watching from the window (my new form of meditation). I will certainly miss the vibrancy of the streets at night, but not perhaps the constant horns.

It feels like I have been away forever, and not at all. It will probably take a while to sink in (isn't that what the 20+ hour flight is for?).  And dont even mention coming back to winter!.  Thanks for coming on this adventure with me. Its my last post for this trip. A little sad but happy to be catching up with y'all soon!  So its 'Gule Gule' Turkey... its been a blast, though I may never eat Turkish Delight again -- who knew the 1 kilo bag wasn't a good idea? It did make it across 2 continents though--  xx Bec

Finally, the Palace!

Okay, so it took a couple of days, but I finally made it to Dolmanhce Palace and harem. A virtual monument to French Baroque design, the overstated opulence reflects a very different time and now the chandeliers are only switched on for heads of state... I really liked the crystal palace which is adjacent to the aviary (that still has chickens, pheasants and a peacock running around free). The glass work is very fine and lends an open, airy feel to the Palace space. The Palace grounds are beautiful however, a tranquil respite from the busy-ness of Istanbul, catching the waterfront breeze and views.

I feel like I have traipsed all over Istanbul via the oddest routes ( the 'lets see what's up here' compass).  Must have climbed 1000s of stairs ... miraculously without the need to don a red headband and a bad Philly accent.  Have spent time walking around  Karakoy, Ortakoy, Besiktas, Devant, Etlier, Macca, Taksim, Galata, Uskudar, Cemberlitas... the list goes on. Each place has offered something new and different, though you can see that the hottest and longest Ramadan is really starting wear.  I've seen several fights erupt out of nowhere (including the bus driver getting out of the packed bus to abuse the car in front), accidents, fainting etc. People are hot, bothered, hungry and tetchy. Lots of cafe's turn into self-service venues so as not to tempt the staff, which can be tricky to navigate. Ramadan also seems to import and/or bring out a whole other level of beggars and street people --apparently giving alms is a major part of Ramadan, so everyone is approached -- constantly. 

I decided yesterday to get out of the heat and visit 2 of Istanbul's shopping malls ( a relatively recent phenomena), which felt a bit morgue-like. To cheer myself up I went back to the Grand Bazaar, mostly to laugh at the truly horrifying mannequins with painted beards, grotesque expressions and satin dinner suits (think Chucky goes to the Prom).  I tried to photograph them but unfortunately the shop keepers were always loitering around the front near  the most hilarious ones !! Oh well, images will exist somewhere in Google-land if you need a bit of levity in your day. Anyway, missing you all and home soon xxx B

The Anarchists are Following Me!

Yesterday I revisited Taksim Square, which has now been cleared of protesters  and converted into a virtual parking lot for police riot vans and buses.  Its amazing to see how 'cleaned up' it has become, hardly a trace of the past month's activities (except some splashes of spray paint and shattered high glass panels on shops).  Will post some photos so you can compare before and after!.  
Never fear, the protesters have now moved into my local park!. Every night rallies and massive meetings (with soup kitchen style food supply) are held in the park's arena, only 200 metres from the apartment. The same is going on in other major centres, with people exploring 'where to next'.  

On a lighter note, today I took some ferry trips around the Bospherous, stopping in Ushkudar and Kadakoy for a wander around.  Had a relaxing time at an old local hamam (bathhouse) in Kadakoy where I was scrubbed clean and soaped up.  Ran into a friend of mine from Uralla (!!) and we went for dinner by the sea.  Its great to just relax a bit and chat til late.  Hopefully I will make it to Dolmanhce Palace today -- I say this everyday (its literally walking distance) but I just keep getting distracted... suppose that's what travelling is about. Home soon and can't wait to catch up xxx B

Breathing in the Bospherous

I'm sitting taking in the breeze and the magnificent view of the Bospherous, which is just mesmerizing. The call to prayers breaking the evening Ramadan fast is echoing throughout the streets as I watch tankers, ferries and yachts sail up and down the strait.  Across the water there is a low lit mosque and small palace, and the moon is almost full. Who could not love Istanbul? I've decided to spend a couple of weeks back here instead of facing Antalya's 40 degree heat.  This time I'm staying with a local architect in the 'hip' area of Bistakas (?). The streets are cobbled and steep but the area is surrounded with shops, eateries, bars and restaurants. Its nice to experience Istanbul as a local lives it, and I've already made friends with the neighbourhood  'sis' (as in Shisk Kabab) restaurant owner.  I'm not sure they get too many tourists in this little quarter, at least not ones with that deer in headlight stare when they are asked questions in Turkish. Needless to say, I will be trying out for NIDA when I return as my mime skills are  almost perfected.  Today I explored the area, tried to make it to the ferry but got waylay-ed by the ever powerful 'sale' signs. So a handbag, some dresses and -- well, the list goes on -- later I  trudged back up the hill to sit with a cuppa and take in the view.  Its now 3 hours later and I haven't moved.... its the  kind of city people could come to and never leave xxx B

Floating about in Fethiye

Oh, this is such an easy place to relax in. Warm weather and warm sea makes Fethiye fairly chilled out despite its huge tourist population. This morning I got up super-early to see the Lycian rock tombs -- as its a 200+ stair climb, I wanted an early start before the real heat set in.  Was the only one there, so I could take in the gorgeous views of the town and harbour in peace.  The tombs are amazing and right in the centre of town.  Yesterday I went to the beach resort of Calais (which is a bit like Santa Monica/Venice beach with its strip walkways adorned by shops and restaurants)  and took a water taxi back to Fethiye.  The day before was a 12 Island cruise, jumping off ship into the Mediterranean at different mooring spots.  It was sooo relaxing that I fell asleep in the sun for 10 minutes and got pretty burnt. Today is my last here before heading back to the busy whirl of Istanbul. As I write there are chickens running around me and I am overlooking the pool outside my room. This really is a place you could drift into to doing nothing for a very long time. No wonder the Greeks wrote myths warning of this apathy! Think I might read a book in the cabana for a bit.... are you jealous yet?! xxx B 

Twilight Ride in the Rose Valley ... Giddy-up!

What a way to spend my last night in Cappadocia! Took a twilight ride through the Rose Valley, with its spectacular scenery.  Not for the fainthearted, the horses traversed up and down cliffs, stopping on a peak to watch the sunset over the region.  Tomorrow I'm heading off to Fethiye on the Aegean coast for some sun and surf... well, water.  Its been hitting 40 degrees in the region, so we'll see how it goes!. Hiking Goreme's valleys was wonderful -- even saw a fairly large turtle wandering about ... in the desert!. After 6 days here, am looking forward to seeing the sea and eating some hamsi tava (fried sardines, my mouth is watering already) xxx B

Whats that definition of insanity again?

Okay, so doing the same thing again and expecting a different result may be 'insane', but this Turkish dance show was on land... 
Despite the excruciating dance show experience on the Bospherous -- iceberg, please, anyone -- I was convinced by some other travellers that this Turkish dance show was a sight not to be missed. I grant you, it was marginally better than the Istanbul experience, but it still had the obligatory puppet people  and the traditional dancers could not have been less enthused. To the untrained eye, most of the male dancing looked like a pre-wrestling match haka. Overall, a very strange night but had a good laugh with my Brazilian table-mates. In the day I finally  did the Turkish hamam/bathhouse experience. With a Kyrgis masseur, I'm now a layer of skin lighter but it was good xxx B 

Like a bad 80's rock ballad, Cappadocia rocks my world!

Okay, so those who are still recovering from the Moab, Utah photo night may want to leave the room  -- I'm in rock heaven!.  Between the fairy chimneys and ancient cave homes, I have seen as many rock valley's as even I can take. Went hiking in the Rose and Love valleys in hell-like heat, channeling my inner mountain goat to crawl up and along the almost granite like surfaces. Went to the Zelve and Goreme Open Air Museums  filled with Byzantine churches where religious hermits and refugees lived.  The frescos were amazing but have been largely destroyed by religious vandals (cutting out the  faces and eyes of Christian saints etc). Even got up at 4 am for the ballooning over the valleys, which was just breathtaking!.  The pilot was so good he landed us upright into the back of the ute!. Will load photos as soon as I get flickr working again.  Miss y'all xxx B

Almost forgot to tell you...

I did the segway tour and everyone made it out alive!!!  Hooned around Barcolonetta and the beach district at the top speed of 15-20km p/hr . Even navigated the narrow laneways of the Gothic Quarter.  I soooooo want one now. At about 7500 Euros plus shipping, I am happy to accept donations or work on a glide-share scheme.  This was a fantastic way to see a lot of the city quickly and get my bearings. Plus its like being Buck (or Becky) Rogers in the 21st Century -- apologies to all my Gen-Yer's, you'll just have to google it xxx B

Adios Espana!

Barcelona has been jam packed, yesterday I visited the glorious mountain monastery of Montserrat, braving the front window seat of the ariel car down the cliff-side (note to self,  never bungy jump). Caught a glimpse of the black Madonna and walked the pilgrim trail of devotional carved out shrines.  Last night it was a Flamenco performance at the breathtaking monument to Art Noveau, the Palau de la Musica then today was spent at the seriously quirky Federic Mares Museum. Mr Mares clearly had issues with obsession-compulsive behaviour, and presents the most eclectic but comprehensive collection of art, antiquities and objects of the heart that you can imagines.  My favorite was his array of antique tarot cards!  Spent hours comparing the differences between same subject devotional carvings... suprisingly moving. There is so much to see and do in Barcelona, and just as I am finally navigating the alleys of the Gothic Quarter with ease its off to Turkey. So its Adios Espana! Cappadocia calling xxxx B

Gotta Love Gaudi

 So here is the mandatory Gaudi tribute blog... 

but you have to love a city that embraced such radical designs... this was the late 1800's after all! There is a wonderful connectivity between Gaudi's key buildings in Barcelona, many of which are visible from the other. Yesterday I did the mountainous trek to Park Guell. I kid you not, these streets make San Francisco look like a salt pan. The architecture was amazing and the park really came to life with Afro-Cuban bands (will try and load some video links).  

Then today was Palace Guell with its famous sloping rooftop and mosaic chimneys.  Formerly a brothel, this building felt incredibly spacious and palatial, even though its only 500msq.  I really enjoyed this space with its attention to detail.  Even the twists in the wrought iron casings at the entrance are made so you can see out but people cant see in, brilliant!. The roof was a little freaky (putting you off balance) but the view to La Familia Sagrida (Gaudi's famous cathedral project, still being built) was impressive. Ultimately Gaudi had a falling out with Guell, his patron and building(s) owner.  The last building he designed for Guell has some interesting features evidencing their acrimony -- including Gaudi's hommage to Guell, which incorporates into the external design a  bird  famous for building nests out of its own poo. Gotta love 19thC building disputes! xx B

Ola Barcelona, the City that Never Sleeps!

Forget the EU recession, Barcelona is bustling -- with shop sales and late night tapas venues full to capacity.  It feels as though this city only comes to life after 10pm, which the long daylight hours make you think is later than it is. Teaming with tourists and locals, the streets are busy with street performers and party-goers. Its hard not to love this place, and despite my shuttle bus detour to Costa Brava (dont ask, but lets just say the 15 minute trip from the airport to downtown took 4 times longer than my flight!!!), I already feel at home. There is so much energy just in the crowds and street markets that its hard to motivate yourself to do the 'serious' tourist stuff (museums, galleries) but eventually the 30 plus heat pushes you indoors.  I have been on walking tour of the old Gothic quarter (where I'm staying) and a Gaudi walking tour (almost obligatory). 

Went to tapas with 2 new American friends which was just a hoot!. Keep mixing up my Spanish with Japanese, so I am completely incomprehensible but people are very kind and I am becoming adept at mime.  Can see why so many people come here and never leave.... now if I could only smuggle Zed in. Will work on it tonight over patatas bravas and paella xxx B

Its a truth universally acknowledged...

 that a single man in possession of a good fortune must be in want of a wife... or is that Wifi?  Getting access to the internet has been a bit tricky in Bath (sorry for the lack of posts) but I assure you I have been busying around the city!. Of course I did the Austen walking tour and visitor's centre (was even filmed by a TV crew in my period apparel). Then it was off to Lacock, where Pride and Prejudice (Meriton) and Harry Potter where filmed. Took happy snaps outside Harry Potter's house and waited for Mr Darcy, but he must have been at the lake.  Great fun and gorgeous countryside. 

The absolute highlight  was Avebury, with its intersecting circles of standing stones and serenity -- no wonder the Druids thought this place magical. Finished with a twilight tour of the Roman baths, you can see why they loved this place.  Off to Barcelona tomorrow for some Spanish sunshine! xxx B

I know real estate is at a premium, but...

In the land of the endless apartment block, combining your backyard with your shoes is a stroke of genius!. Last night went to the Motcomb street party which was a sight to behold -- a veritable army of Anthea's and Poppy's full of silicon and champagne which provided no end of entertainment.  The music was fantastic but there was only so much one could take of Who Wants to Date a Millionaire, so it was off home for some respite. Today it was a historic tour of Kensington, then evensong in Westminister Abbey (sublime). Off to Bath tomorrow, home of the Jane Austen museum, can hardly wait! xx B

'Taking the Waters' in Bath

Yes, like Lady Dalrymple, I have come to take the waters in Bath! Overwhelmingly Georgian, Bath has spectacular architectural uniformity and one of the only operational (Roman) spas in the country. So who could pass up a few hours in the Minerva baths and steam rooms, with breathtaking views over the city from the roof-top pool? I'm really glad I did this. While the spa is packed and modernised, it was wonderful just to relax and soak in the cityscape  Afterwards it was the Bizarre Bath walking tour, run by a professional comedian.  I was laughing so much within the first 10 minutes that tears were streaming down my face!. Big day at Stonehenge, Avebury and the Cotswolds tomorrow xx B

Piorot to Austen

Started the day with a walk tour of Clerkenwell and Islington, taking in Lenin's London home (and Marxist bookstore), Little Britian filming locations and Poirot's art deco apartments, amongst others. The tour was interesting but speedy, taking in off-beat sights that you would otherwise miss.  In the evening it was off to Regents Park for the outdoor theater performance of Pride and Prejudice. It was a great play and the location was amazing with a sea of roses in full bloom.  Its daylight until after 10pm, which is a bit disorientating but great for making the most out of your days. Tomorrow night there is a major street party near here, with Bee Gees and George Micheal impersonation shows. Should be a hoot! xx B

Hanging around in Dalston...

Made the monumental trek (not really, if you minus traffic gridlock) to Hackney to see the  latest public art installation work by Leandro Erlich. Got there only to find it was a 'press day', closed to the public. Not to fear, Aussie charm not only got us in, but we became models for the Rueters shoot!. What an amazing experience. A private viewing/play, saw the artist and listened to all the TV interviews taking place. Then off to Dalston community arts gardens for homemade lemonade and tea.  Check out the Washington Post, Irish times and others... (www.washingtonpost.com/world/photos-of-the-day/2013/06/25/6dfd9006-dcf6-11e2-9218-bc2ac7cd44e2_gallery.html#photo=1). xx B

As the world tilts...

Back in London and last night attended the outdoor ariel performance 'As the world tilts' which marked the opening of the Greenwich and Docklands arts festival. This was an incredible performance, not just for the acrobatics and video montage, but for the eco-message.  It was enough to make you want to go deep green, right now.  Today it was window shopping in Marylebone with a detour past Sherlock Holmes house! Its still freezing, worse than winter. Tomorrow is a ghost walking tour of London. Off for some hot chocolate to keep warm! xx B

Get the Doc quick! Guess who was filming in Port Isaac

The morning began at Mount Saint Micheal, with a ferry ride over in the mist. Got there nice and early before the crowds and  made like a mountain goat up the mountain.  Its not for the faint hearted, but very impressive. Stopped in at Padstow and Fowey, the most gorgeous port towns, before heading to Doc Martin country at Port Isaac.  Was lucky enough to be there on a filming day and saw sights and stars. Tried a traditional Cornish pastie and a crab sandwich, considering buying larger pants, soon!. Came back to Exeter and went gargolye spotting at the cathedral. No shiela-na-gigs but plenty of greenmen, grotesques and dragons. The stonework is amazing and I could spend hours searching them out. Exeter is a suprisingly arts focused city, with great outdoor dining and entertainment areas, and lots of free performances. You could spend weeks just in Cornwall, and it seems most Brits feel the same (incredible number of local tourists in this region).  Lovely, lovely, lovely!  Back to London tonight... still freezing! xx B

Witchcraft Museum to Minack Theatre... Crazy about Cornwall

After arriving in Exeter to pick up the car, we were off to Boscastle for the Witchcraft Museum and one of the best pub lunches I've eaten.  The museum was great and who could not love Boscastle, where everyone has a dog (even wheeling them around in prams).  Headed down to Penzance after a short stop in Tintagel, home of King Arthur and Merlin's cave.  This is Camelot country, incredible!.  Watched an evening performance of Arabian Nights in the breathtaking Minack Theatre, a natural stone auditorium on the edge of Cornwall's dramatic coastal cliffs.  Just add in homemade scones with clotted Cornish cream and you're in heaven!.  Off to Mount Saint Michael tomorrow and some small port towns. The driving is a but ruggered --really small maze like roads between Roman walls -- but its an adventure! xxx B

Bring out the snow plough, its summer in London

Okay, I know that Turkey is unseasonally warm but come on, its 15c at midday here -- and with the windchill it feels like -5!. Took off this morning to Notting Hill (Portobello Rd) Markets in search of cheap warm clothes.  The markets were great, cut short by the sleeting rain.  London is a long way from Istanbul and I already miss the vibrancy of that place.  The UK is soooo subdued by comparison, and the weather isn't helping.  Once I warm up  I will venture out to the Natural History Museum which I suspect will be full of people  trying to keep dry. Its been a bit of a travel whirlwind and its catching up with me, so this is definitely good resting weather. I'm staying in Chelsea, which is lovely, then Belgravia next week.  Off to Cornwall early next week to see Mount St Michael and Port Isasc (where Doc Martin is filmed).  

Emire, you will be pleased to know that I have picked up a little Turkish and have drunk sooo much Turkish tea and coffee  that I am now in withdrawl.  Even did kavhe fali (Turkish coffee fortune reading), which was a hoot!.  

Quick cuppa and I am off to brave the outdoors.  Will channel my inner Bear Gryllis and fight my way through the elements to the subway... its tough, I know... Missing you all xx B

Taksim Square Protest... More than just a park

Back in Istanbul yesterday and spent the day at Taksim Park where a peaceful protest has been taking place for the past week.  While the development of the park was the tipping point, these nationwide protests are in response to concerns held about the increasing islamisation of the country by the current Prime Minister.  While Turkey is more than 90% moslem, they have traditionally seperated church and state and have been liberal in approach and lifestyle.  The Prime Minister has announced plans to ban public drinking, and protesters are concerned about the wind back of their rights and freedoms (especially for women) with the direction the government is headed.  At 8am today the police riot squads entered the square with armed vehicles, water cannons and tear gas.  Its now 10pm and the firing is still going on.  Its unclear what triggered this response from the government as peace talks were to be held tomorrow.  From the protests at the park and throughout Turkey observed, there has been no violent action or hostility from the protesters. I will post photos on Flicker (linked in the slideshow on this blog) to give you a better idea of what is going on xxx B

Ephesus & Kusadasi.. From the Ancient to Modern City

The ancient city of Ephesus was as spectacular as envisioned and equally crowded!. The city must have been amazing in its day, fully equipped with a gymnasium,  theater,  library and stadium, amongst others. Underneath the stadium you could see the waiting area and entrance for the gladiators. No Russell Crowe but hoards of people. After a quick swim, took off to Kusadasi, a port tourist town.  Was expecting something akin to Surfers at Schoolies, but it was surprisingly nice.  The main tourist season has not started yet, so you could leisurely shop and drink Turkish coffee by the seaside. There was a small protest march in town, connected to the larger protests in the major cities.  Its an interesting time to be in Turkey politically. Some of the local media refused to cover the protests (mostly being reported by foreign press and over the web), resulting in almost 200,000 people closing accounts with a major bank owned by one of the local TV stations. Great to see grass roots people power! Taking a break from the ruins tomorrow for beautiful Pammukale and its white tavertine cliffs xx B

Ruined in Selcuk

Having flown into Izmir, we took the bus to Selcuk to see the ancient city of Ephesus with its

 multitude of ruins.  First stop was the St Johns Basilica and the Temple of Artemis, one of the 7 wonders of the ancient world. Not much left to show its formed glory, but incredible to be at a site of this magnitude just the same. Goats wander the streets here, eating mulberries and jumping over the sarcophagi that line the pedestrian walks.  We stopped at a local weaving cooperative introduced to skill women and create an independent means of income.  It is government funded, introduced to provide a  long term means of financial independence after a spate of regional women suicides (given domestic circumstances) and to assist Turkey's bid to join the EU.  The weaving was complex, tricky and incredibly interesting. Learnt about local dyes from eggplants and pomegranates and the symbolism of regional carpet designs. Similar initiatives have been introduced for ceramic work and jewellry. Off the Ephesus tomorrow xx B

Fener & Fatih Markets... A piece of history

Today I went on a walking tour of the old Jewish and Greek areas of Fener and Balat, and to the local Fatih markets. The merger of Greek and Turkish cultures through  architecture is incredible, and  the main Greek Orthodox church was bedazzling with gold.  The Fatih markets had food samples on ready supply, meaning I now have totally abandoned any hope of losing weight in Turkey!  A kilo of Turkish delight was only $1.75 and there were more olives than you would believe.  Tasted white mulberries, green plums and cherries galore.  Watched traditional bagels being cooked in a wood fired oven and marvelled at the unique ottoman houses and Muslim cemetery (decorative headstone indicating former role in life, eg swords for military; fez for official). Am honing my bargaining skills and even brought an 'evil eye' warding off dog collar for Zed. Dogs are everywhere here, love it! xx B

From the harem to the kitchen (sound familiar?)

Well most of the morning was spent at the gorgeous Topaki Palace, including its famous Harem.  Cant help but think that it was a gilded cage, but luxurious. The weapons section was most impressive and the pavillions overlooking the Bospherous are just breathtaking. A short visit to the science museum (with a whole wing dedicated to water clocks, Harshi!) then it was off to my Turkish cooking class -- even had to wear the white cloak and chef hat.  Have absolutely no chance of replicating what turned out to be a delicious meal. I think the secret is pomegranate syrup.... that will be my excuse xxx B

Istanbul's a riot, literally... and I love it!

Okay, so the 'really bad pollution' burning my eyes and nose hair was really tear gas drift, but every city has its drawbacks. While the Taksim Square protests required a quick change of plans, there is little not to love about Istanbul. Yesterday I visited Hagia Sophia -- saw the upstairs viking marble-carved graffiti which was a bucket list item (got to love  8thc bored Nordic bodyguards); the Archaeological Museum (so I'm a Hittite nerd, but their lions are toooo cute); and the blue mosque.There is something wonderful about a religion that sings its followers to prayer, syren-like.  The city is a breathtaking mix of centuries. Maybe its the armed military posted everywhere, but Istanbul is safe, welcoming and gracious. As I write I'm overlooking ancient fortified walls and cobbled stone streets... and don't get me started on the sweets. Off to Topaki Palace, the Basilica cistern and science museum today xxx B

Life in the airport lounge..

Been in transit for 28 hours so far, only another 8 to go before I land in Istanbul. Sitting in Heathrow, the hub of airport tedium.  Circled the shops, finally figured out how to access their wi-fi and now have to board!.  Have watched more movies than I ever need to see and even resorted to playing digital 'who wants to be a millonaire' --needless to say, you don't always get what you want and I would be going home poor.  Will write when I get to Istanbul.... cant wait! Hope you are all well xxx B

So long & thanks for all the fish...

One more week in gorgeous Jervis Bay, then its Turkey here I come! Looking forward to you coming on this journey with me xx B