Okay, so it took a couple of days, but I finally made it to Dolmanhce Palace and harem. A virtual monument to French Baroque design, the overstated opulence reflects a very different time and now the chandeliers are only switched on for heads of state... I really liked the crystal palace which is adjacent to the aviary (that still has chickens, pheasants and a peacock running around free). The glass work is very fine and lends an open, airy feel to the Palace space. The Palace grounds are beautiful however, a tranquil respite from the busy-ness of Istanbul, catching the waterfront breeze and views.
I feel like I have traipsed all over Istanbul via the oddest routes ( the 'lets see what's up here' compass). Must have climbed 1000s of stairs ... miraculously without the need to don a red headband and a bad Philly accent. Have spent time walking around Karakoy, Ortakoy, Besiktas, Devant, Etlier, Macca, Taksim, Galata, Uskudar, Cemberlitas... the list goes on. Each place has offered something new and different, though you can see that the hottest and longest Ramadan is really starting wear. I've seen several fights erupt out of nowhere (including the bus driver getting out of the packed bus to abuse the car in front), accidents, fainting etc. People are hot, bothered, hungry and tetchy. Lots of cafe's turn into self-service venues so as not to tempt the staff, which can be tricky to navigate. Ramadan also seems to import and/or bring out a whole other level of beggars and street people --apparently giving alms is a major part of Ramadan, so everyone is approached -- constantly.
I decided yesterday to get out of the heat and visit 2 of Istanbul's shopping malls ( a relatively recent phenomena), which felt a bit morgue-like. To cheer myself up I went back to the Grand Bazaar, mostly to laugh at the truly horrifying mannequins with painted beards, grotesque expressions and satin dinner suits (think Chucky goes to the Prom). I tried to photograph them but unfortunately the shop keepers were always loitering around the front near the most hilarious ones !! Oh well, images will exist somewhere in Google-land if you need a bit of levity in your day. Anyway, missing you all and home soon xxx B
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