Must be time to come home...

... as the thought of another doner kebab, borek or manti (ravioli) is leaving me a bit lack-lustre (and McDonalds is starting to look really appealing as a mainstream diet). 

Still,  its been a trip and a half, and now I am truly exhausted. No more call to prayers to tell the time; no more giving way to motorbikes on the sidewalk like they are pedestrians; no more Bospherous-watching from the window (my new form of meditation). I will certainly miss the vibrancy of the streets at night, but not perhaps the constant horns.

It feels like I have been away forever, and not at all. It will probably take a while to sink in (isn't that what the 20+ hour flight is for?).  And dont even mention coming back to winter!.  Thanks for coming on this adventure with me. Its my last post for this trip. A little sad but happy to be catching up with y'all soon!  So its 'Gule Gule' Turkey... its been a blast, though I may never eat Turkish Delight again -- who knew the 1 kilo bag wasn't a good idea? It did make it across 2 continents though--  xx Bec

Finally, the Palace!

Okay, so it took a couple of days, but I finally made it to Dolmanhce Palace and harem. A virtual monument to French Baroque design, the overstated opulence reflects a very different time and now the chandeliers are only switched on for heads of state... I really liked the crystal palace which is adjacent to the aviary (that still has chickens, pheasants and a peacock running around free). The glass work is very fine and lends an open, airy feel to the Palace space. The Palace grounds are beautiful however, a tranquil respite from the busy-ness of Istanbul, catching the waterfront breeze and views.

I feel like I have traipsed all over Istanbul via the oddest routes ( the 'lets see what's up here' compass).  Must have climbed 1000s of stairs ... miraculously without the need to don a red headband and a bad Philly accent.  Have spent time walking around  Karakoy, Ortakoy, Besiktas, Devant, Etlier, Macca, Taksim, Galata, Uskudar, Cemberlitas... the list goes on. Each place has offered something new and different, though you can see that the hottest and longest Ramadan is really starting wear.  I've seen several fights erupt out of nowhere (including the bus driver getting out of the packed bus to abuse the car in front), accidents, fainting etc. People are hot, bothered, hungry and tetchy. Lots of cafe's turn into self-service venues so as not to tempt the staff, which can be tricky to navigate. Ramadan also seems to import and/or bring out a whole other level of beggars and street people --apparently giving alms is a major part of Ramadan, so everyone is approached -- constantly. 

I decided yesterday to get out of the heat and visit 2 of Istanbul's shopping malls ( a relatively recent phenomena), which felt a bit morgue-like. To cheer myself up I went back to the Grand Bazaar, mostly to laugh at the truly horrifying mannequins with painted beards, grotesque expressions and satin dinner suits (think Chucky goes to the Prom).  I tried to photograph them but unfortunately the shop keepers were always loitering around the front near  the most hilarious ones !! Oh well, images will exist somewhere in Google-land if you need a bit of levity in your day. Anyway, missing you all and home soon xxx B

The Anarchists are Following Me!

Yesterday I revisited Taksim Square, which has now been cleared of protesters  and converted into a virtual parking lot for police riot vans and buses.  Its amazing to see how 'cleaned up' it has become, hardly a trace of the past month's activities (except some splashes of spray paint and shattered high glass panels on shops).  Will post some photos so you can compare before and after!.  
Never fear, the protesters have now moved into my local park!. Every night rallies and massive meetings (with soup kitchen style food supply) are held in the park's arena, only 200 metres from the apartment. The same is going on in other major centres, with people exploring 'where to next'.  

On a lighter note, today I took some ferry trips around the Bospherous, stopping in Ushkudar and Kadakoy for a wander around.  Had a relaxing time at an old local hamam (bathhouse) in Kadakoy where I was scrubbed clean and soaped up.  Ran into a friend of mine from Uralla (!!) and we went for dinner by the sea.  Its great to just relax a bit and chat til late.  Hopefully I will make it to Dolmanhce Palace today -- I say this everyday (its literally walking distance) but I just keep getting distracted... suppose that's what travelling is about. Home soon and can't wait to catch up xxx B

Breathing in the Bospherous

I'm sitting taking in the breeze and the magnificent view of the Bospherous, which is just mesmerizing. The call to prayers breaking the evening Ramadan fast is echoing throughout the streets as I watch tankers, ferries and yachts sail up and down the strait.  Across the water there is a low lit mosque and small palace, and the moon is almost full. Who could not love Istanbul? I've decided to spend a couple of weeks back here instead of facing Antalya's 40 degree heat.  This time I'm staying with a local architect in the 'hip' area of Bistakas (?). The streets are cobbled and steep but the area is surrounded with shops, eateries, bars and restaurants. Its nice to experience Istanbul as a local lives it, and I've already made friends with the neighbourhood  'sis' (as in Shisk Kabab) restaurant owner.  I'm not sure they get too many tourists in this little quarter, at least not ones with that deer in headlight stare when they are asked questions in Turkish. Needless to say, I will be trying out for NIDA when I return as my mime skills are  almost perfected.  Today I explored the area, tried to make it to the ferry but got waylay-ed by the ever powerful 'sale' signs. So a handbag, some dresses and -- well, the list goes on -- later I  trudged back up the hill to sit with a cuppa and take in the view.  Its now 3 hours later and I haven't moved.... its the  kind of city people could come to and never leave xxx B

Floating about in Fethiye

Oh, this is such an easy place to relax in. Warm weather and warm sea makes Fethiye fairly chilled out despite its huge tourist population. This morning I got up super-early to see the Lycian rock tombs -- as its a 200+ stair climb, I wanted an early start before the real heat set in.  Was the only one there, so I could take in the gorgeous views of the town and harbour in peace.  The tombs are amazing and right in the centre of town.  Yesterday I went to the beach resort of Calais (which is a bit like Santa Monica/Venice beach with its strip walkways adorned by shops and restaurants)  and took a water taxi back to Fethiye.  The day before was a 12 Island cruise, jumping off ship into the Mediterranean at different mooring spots.  It was sooo relaxing that I fell asleep in the sun for 10 minutes and got pretty burnt. Today is my last here before heading back to the busy whirl of Istanbul. As I write there are chickens running around me and I am overlooking the pool outside my room. This really is a place you could drift into to doing nothing for a very long time. No wonder the Greeks wrote myths warning of this apathy! Think I might read a book in the cabana for a bit.... are you jealous yet?! xxx B 

Twilight Ride in the Rose Valley ... Giddy-up!

What a way to spend my last night in Cappadocia! Took a twilight ride through the Rose Valley, with its spectacular scenery.  Not for the fainthearted, the horses traversed up and down cliffs, stopping on a peak to watch the sunset over the region.  Tomorrow I'm heading off to Fethiye on the Aegean coast for some sun and surf... well, water.  Its been hitting 40 degrees in the region, so we'll see how it goes!. Hiking Goreme's valleys was wonderful -- even saw a fairly large turtle wandering about ... in the desert!. After 6 days here, am looking forward to seeing the sea and eating some hamsi tava (fried sardines, my mouth is watering already) xxx B

Whats that definition of insanity again?

Okay, so doing the same thing again and expecting a different result may be 'insane', but this Turkish dance show was on land... 
Despite the excruciating dance show experience on the Bospherous -- iceberg, please, anyone -- I was convinced by some other travellers that this Turkish dance show was a sight not to be missed. I grant you, it was marginally better than the Istanbul experience, but it still had the obligatory puppet people  and the traditional dancers could not have been less enthused. To the untrained eye, most of the male dancing looked like a pre-wrestling match haka. Overall, a very strange night but had a good laugh with my Brazilian table-mates. In the day I finally  did the Turkish hamam/bathhouse experience. With a Kyrgis masseur, I'm now a layer of skin lighter but it was good xxx B 

Like a bad 80's rock ballad, Cappadocia rocks my world!

Okay, so those who are still recovering from the Moab, Utah photo night may want to leave the room  -- I'm in rock heaven!.  Between the fairy chimneys and ancient cave homes, I have seen as many rock valley's as even I can take. Went hiking in the Rose and Love valleys in hell-like heat, channeling my inner mountain goat to crawl up and along the almost granite like surfaces. Went to the Zelve and Goreme Open Air Museums  filled with Byzantine churches where religious hermits and refugees lived.  The frescos were amazing but have been largely destroyed by religious vandals (cutting out the  faces and eyes of Christian saints etc). Even got up at 4 am for the ballooning over the valleys, which was just breathtaking!.  The pilot was so good he landed us upright into the back of the ute!. Will load photos as soon as I get flickr working again.  Miss y'all xxx B

Almost forgot to tell you...

I did the segway tour and everyone made it out alive!!!  Hooned around Barcolonetta and the beach district at the top speed of 15-20km p/hr . Even navigated the narrow laneways of the Gothic Quarter.  I soooooo want one now. At about 7500 Euros plus shipping, I am happy to accept donations or work on a glide-share scheme.  This was a fantastic way to see a lot of the city quickly and get my bearings. Plus its like being Buck (or Becky) Rogers in the 21st Century -- apologies to all my Gen-Yer's, you'll just have to google it xxx B

Adios Espana!

Barcelona has been jam packed, yesterday I visited the glorious mountain monastery of Montserrat, braving the front window seat of the ariel car down the cliff-side (note to self,  never bungy jump). Caught a glimpse of the black Madonna and walked the pilgrim trail of devotional carved out shrines.  Last night it was a Flamenco performance at the breathtaking monument to Art Noveau, the Palau de la Musica then today was spent at the seriously quirky Federic Mares Museum. Mr Mares clearly had issues with obsession-compulsive behaviour, and presents the most eclectic but comprehensive collection of art, antiquities and objects of the heart that you can imagines.  My favorite was his array of antique tarot cards!  Spent hours comparing the differences between same subject devotional carvings... suprisingly moving. There is so much to see and do in Barcelona, and just as I am finally navigating the alleys of the Gothic Quarter with ease its off to Turkey. So its Adios Espana! Cappadocia calling xxxx B

Gotta Love Gaudi

 So here is the mandatory Gaudi tribute blog... 

but you have to love a city that embraced such radical designs... this was the late 1800's after all! There is a wonderful connectivity between Gaudi's key buildings in Barcelona, many of which are visible from the other. Yesterday I did the mountainous trek to Park Guell. I kid you not, these streets make San Francisco look like a salt pan. The architecture was amazing and the park really came to life with Afro-Cuban bands (will try and load some video links).  

Then today was Palace Guell with its famous sloping rooftop and mosaic chimneys.  Formerly a brothel, this building felt incredibly spacious and palatial, even though its only 500msq.  I really enjoyed this space with its attention to detail.  Even the twists in the wrought iron casings at the entrance are made so you can see out but people cant see in, brilliant!. The roof was a little freaky (putting you off balance) but the view to La Familia Sagrida (Gaudi's famous cathedral project, still being built) was impressive. Ultimately Gaudi had a falling out with Guell, his patron and building(s) owner.  The last building he designed for Guell has some interesting features evidencing their acrimony -- including Gaudi's hommage to Guell, which incorporates into the external design a  bird  famous for building nests out of its own poo. Gotta love 19thC building disputes! xx B

Ola Barcelona, the City that Never Sleeps!

Forget the EU recession, Barcelona is bustling -- with shop sales and late night tapas venues full to capacity.  It feels as though this city only comes to life after 10pm, which the long daylight hours make you think is later than it is. Teaming with tourists and locals, the streets are busy with street performers and party-goers. Its hard not to love this place, and despite my shuttle bus detour to Costa Brava (dont ask, but lets just say the 15 minute trip from the airport to downtown took 4 times longer than my flight!!!), I already feel at home. There is so much energy just in the crowds and street markets that its hard to motivate yourself to do the 'serious' tourist stuff (museums, galleries) but eventually the 30 plus heat pushes you indoors.  I have been on walking tour of the old Gothic quarter (where I'm staying) and a Gaudi walking tour (almost obligatory). 

Went to tapas with 2 new American friends which was just a hoot!. Keep mixing up my Spanish with Japanese, so I am completely incomprehensible but people are very kind and I am becoming adept at mime.  Can see why so many people come here and never leave.... now if I could only smuggle Zed in. Will work on it tonight over patatas bravas and paella xxx B

Its a truth universally acknowledged...

 that a single man in possession of a good fortune must be in want of a wife... or is that Wifi?  Getting access to the internet has been a bit tricky in Bath (sorry for the lack of posts) but I assure you I have been busying around the city!. Of course I did the Austen walking tour and visitor's centre (was even filmed by a TV crew in my period apparel). Then it was off to Lacock, where Pride and Prejudice (Meriton) and Harry Potter where filmed. Took happy snaps outside Harry Potter's house and waited for Mr Darcy, but he must have been at the lake.  Great fun and gorgeous countryside. 

The absolute highlight  was Avebury, with its intersecting circles of standing stones and serenity -- no wonder the Druids thought this place magical. Finished with a twilight tour of the Roman baths, you can see why they loved this place.  Off to Barcelona tomorrow for some Spanish sunshine! xxx B

I know real estate is at a premium, but...

In the land of the endless apartment block, combining your backyard with your shoes is a stroke of genius!. Last night went to the Motcomb street party which was a sight to behold -- a veritable army of Anthea's and Poppy's full of silicon and champagne which provided no end of entertainment.  The music was fantastic but there was only so much one could take of Who Wants to Date a Millionaire, so it was off home for some respite. Today it was a historic tour of Kensington, then evensong in Westminister Abbey (sublime). Off to Bath tomorrow, home of the Jane Austen museum, can hardly wait! xx B

'Taking the Waters' in Bath

Yes, like Lady Dalrymple, I have come to take the waters in Bath! Overwhelmingly Georgian, Bath has spectacular architectural uniformity and one of the only operational (Roman) spas in the country. So who could pass up a few hours in the Minerva baths and steam rooms, with breathtaking views over the city from the roof-top pool? I'm really glad I did this. While the spa is packed and modernised, it was wonderful just to relax and soak in the cityscape  Afterwards it was the Bizarre Bath walking tour, run by a professional comedian.  I was laughing so much within the first 10 minutes that tears were streaming down my face!. Big day at Stonehenge, Avebury and the Cotswolds tomorrow xx B